Each Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.